Happy First Blogoversary!

T for Tantu - Beaded Jewellery

Happy First Blogoversary to Tantu!

Happy First Blogoversary to Tantu!

Thank you all the beloved Tantu visitors, followers, readers and supporters!

This is your success!

This beaded neck piece T for Tantu is accidentally made while clicking my old funky/junk/costume jewelleries… I hope you like it! TC! Bye until next post!

———————————————————————————————

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Accessories, Designing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Quick to Make Kundan Costume Jewellery

This post is to showcase a quick to make and inexpensive Kundan Costume Jewellery set.

Namaste!

Today I will show you one of my old creations, Kundan Costume Jewellery. This is an easy to make junk jewellery set. I have spent almost nothing for this accessory.

Kundan Junk Jewellery Close-up View

Kundan Junk Jewellery Close-up View

Have a look of the neck piece and ear hangings

Kundan Costume Jewellery Set

Kundan Costume Jewellery Set

Look at the details of the neck piece centre part

Kundan Costume Jewellery - Neck Piece Centre Part

Kundan Costume Jewellery – Neck Piece Centre Part

Here is a picture of the neck piece details:

Kundan Costume Jewellery - Neck Piece Details

Kundan Costume Jewellery – Neck Piece Details

Below is the picture of ear hangings.

Kundan Costume Jewellery - Ear Hangings

Kundan Costume Jewellery – Ear Hangings

I hope the pictures explained it all! Please let me know your comments for this Kundan Costume Jewellery as well as this quick post :)

Let me sign off for now!

TC! Bye for now!

———————————————————————————————

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Accessories, Designing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Singer Talent 3321 – A Review

A review of my one month old Singer Talent 3321 Automatic Sewing Machine after sewing five sari blouses. This review is made by a manual sewing machine user designer after buying her first automatic sewing machine.

Namaste Dear Tantu Reader!

How are you? Enjoying spring? We have been to Aditi Garden last Sunday, the day before Yugadi (First day of Lunar Calendar) to watch the spring colours. Yugadi was the day of first blogoversary of The Arts & Me, my arts blog. And, when this post gets published, we would be heading to our native, Mangaluru. Yes, these are very busy days! April would almost get over when we are back to Pune. I miss visiting and reading my favourite blogs :(

Anyways, enjoy the scheduled posts till I come back. Today’s post is all about my Singer Talent.

Singer Talent

My Singer Talent

My Singer Talent

We bought Singer Talent 3321 on 2nd of March 2014 from Sri Balaji Sales & Services. My friend Ms. Vidya Sharada had given information about the dealer. Thank you for your kind suggestions Vidyakka!

Shri Balaji Sales & Services are one of the authorised dealers of Singer, Usha and Novel Sewing Machines at Pune. They even offer free home delivery (that is rare for sewing machine purchases). Moreover, he is a Mangalorian, who knows Tulu. We were given 2+2 years warranty for our machine along with a discount of 3,300INR on the MRP of 13,700INR. The extended warranty was given as a part of seasonal offer from the dealer.

Our R&D Before Purchase

I had a motorised Manual Novel Sewing Machine. Novel Sewing Machines have recently become popular in my native, Puttur (Dakshina Kannada). We had Googled and noted Novel Automatic Sewing Machines 33 and 55. We had also noted Usha Allure, Usha Wonder Stitch and Singer Talent.

I strongly wished to buy either Novel Automatic 33 or 55. But, the dealer suggested buying either Usha or Singer as quality and life of Novel machine motors are not up to mark. Usha and Singer service centres are located all over India. Usha machines had less features compared to Singer. So, finally we went for Singer.

Where To Buy?

I suggest you not to buy sewing machines online. Whenever you need any assist, your dealer is readily available for you! But, before going to the dealer, do compare the prices online. Singer India has a list of dealers in their website. So, you can easily find the dealer nearby your place. When I was preparing this post, Singer India’s website was not available.

Features of Singer Talent

Singer Talent Features

Singer Talent – What I loved:

A lot of time saved because of:

  1. Easy top threading. No threading into holes. The thread guides are designed in such a way that slides through the guides lock the thread firmly.
  2. Automatic needle threading.
  3. Easy bobbin winding.
  4. One switch reverse stitching. Plus point is that stitch length settings remain unaffected.
  5. Snap-on presser foot.
  6. Twine needle functions
  7. Embroidery stitches that can also be used as functional stitches for beading, hemming, blind hemming, cording, gathering, over casting, etc.
  8. Quilt guide.
  9. Button stitching & button hole stitching functions (I have been avoiding stitching shirt only because of these two tasks)
  10. No oiling required as such. Once in a year when roughness is felt while sewing, then oiling of the feed dog is necessary.
  11. Automatic thread cutter: I am not a true lefty but, I hold scissors in my left hand. Picking my trimmer and replacing it is a troublesome task while using a right-handed sewing machine (off course most of the sewing machines are designed for the right handed people). Automatic thread cutting feature is helpful for the lefties as I have observed :) .

You can imagine how fantastically my Singer Talent swifts, looking at the following photo. I have sewn 5 sari blouses within a month in addition to managing my two blogs! Funniest fact is that I take double the time to prepare posts for blogs than making the projects!

Function Wear Sari Blouses

5 Function Wear Sari Blouses – Preparation for My Brother-in-law’s Wedding :)

Did I tell you that these blouses are designed for me as a preparation for attending my brother-in-law’s wedding?

Drawbacks of Singer Talent:

It is too early to say something. I didn’t find any drawbacks as such till today. My automatic sewing machine is of medium range and this is the first domestic automatic sewing machine of mine. So, I am not the right person to write a review on comparison between high-medium-low ranges even though I have seen industrial ones.

Since this is my first automatic sewing machine, I was cautious for a day to adjust to the shift from manual to automatic. I have used the machine everyday and may be hence, I picked the changes up within a day. This transition period may vary from person to person. The more frequent the use is, the less the transition period is.

Still, I would suggest the beginners:

The needle hole is wider and lengthier supporting making of advanced stitches. So, fabric must be placed slightly to the back, covering the needle passing hole. If not done so, the fabric puckers and thread loops itself.

Manual V/s Automatic Sewing Machine

Both manual and automatic sewing machines have their own plus points.

  • Manual machine is comparatively slow but steady. Automatic one is faster.
  • Manual machine requires lots of human effort. Even motorised manual machine requires a little human effort. But, the automatic one is highly smooth due to advanced technology.
  • Machine speed balancing is very important for stitching slowly in sensitive areas or faster in other areas. It is the most difficult part for most of the beginners (80%) while learning sewing with the manual machines. But, in automatic ones, beginners can easily learn how much to press the foot speed controller. I have 11 years of sewing experience in manual machines and only a month in that of automatic ones. To me, speed controlling is comfortable in the manual sewing machine. May be I need to get more used to the automatic machines.
  • Manual machines need no electricity or even motorised manual machines can run without electricity. Just a treadle is required. But, automatic sewing machine needs electricity for sure.
  • Threading is tedious in manual sewing machine especially every time the thread is to be changed. Similarly, automatic threading, reverse stitching switch, one snap presser foot, button stitching-button holing, various presser foots (zipper foot, beading foot, overcasting foot, hemmer, and other functional foots) cut a lot of human effort. Off course, all the functional foots except the foots provided along with the machine cost about 5oooINR in total. No bobbin case required for the automatic sewing machines with easy top drop bobbins. Overall, automatic sewing machines save time a lot.
  • No regular oiling is required for the automatic machine. Most of the thread tension adjustment problems, pressure adjustment problems are nil in automatic sewing machines. But, when (very rarely) some problems arrive; the machine is to be taken to the service centre unlike the manual machine that can be maintained by us.
  • Over all the advanced features of automatic machines, one who has learnt sewing in the manual sewing machine would usually have a special feeling for the manual one. Some of my fellow bloggers have even dumped their computerised/programmable machines for the love of sewing with the manual machines! Such is the deep love and affection for the manual sewing machines!

So, finally, I would conclude that Singer Talent is one of the best automatic sewing machines of the medium range to own. I hope and wish my review may help any sewer while buying their first automatic sewing machine.

Enjoy the spring! Bye for now!

TC!

———————————————————————————————

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Designing, Sewing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Tantu & Top 5 March blogs

Namaste!

March has been a busy month till today and I can see myself busy until 31st! I have been postponing writing a review of Singer Talent as I am  so much attached to My Singer Talent :)

March has not only been busy but also full of surprises! Tantu was showcased by Ms. Geeta Nair at her blog http://geetaavij.wordpress.com, here. This happened again! Tantu is listed as one among the top 5  March Blogs here:

BLOGGERS PROMOTER!!! March blogs.

Cheers!

Posted in Designing | 6 Comments

Singer Talent – My New Designing Companion :)

Namaste!

My dearest Tantu reader, how are you? I know, I know, you were waiting for the update here since last week. I am very sorry! I was so busy with my new designing companion Singer Talent that I didn’t realise how fast one week flew and I skipped a post!

My Singer Talent

My Singer Talent

I was gifted this Singer Talent Automatic Sewing Machine by my darling husband on 2nd March, exactly 20 days before my B’day. We don’t have the habit of gifting as such except for showering love up on each other (as usual) on the special days. But, there is a history behind this gift…

I always wished to buy an automatic sewing machine. After my marriage, when I brought my manual sewing machine along with, Venu wanted to buy an automatic one for me. But, I had refused. My plan was to buy one myself. My earnings had stopped since I left my teaching profession soon after getting committed to Venu. My dream was to take up designing as my career and I took up blogging as my platform. So, my automatic sewing machine still remained in the showroom.

Meanwhile Venu tried a lot to change my mind. After two years three months and sixteen days, finally he won! Reason he gave was that I didn’t demand big things and I hadn’t spend much from his pocket. That ‘unspent’ amount he was willing to invest. I got defeated this time too! Yes, this is the second time :(

No worries! I have a new wish now, that is to buy either Singer Futura XL-400 or Usha Dream Maker 120 :) and I would buy it!

Two Newly Stitched Sari Blouses

Two Newly Stitched Sari Blouses

I am enjoying sewing in Singer Talent. Till date I have completed sewing 2 sari blouses and few more are in progress. The most expensive jewellery making project so far I have done, is 90% complete :) :) :)

Lapis Lazuli and Pearls

Lapis Lazuli and Pearls Jewellery – Coming Soon!

At the same time, I become nostalgic looking at my Novel Machine. Let me pat him and tell l that I would take his assist at times! Look at him, now he is very happy :)

Motorised Novel Machine

My Novel Machine

It is time to say bye! I would come back with a review of Singer Talent and with one of my jewellery projects in the upcoming weeks!

Till then, bye! Take care!

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Sewing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 22 Comments

It starts with a thread

sindhoooo:

Dear Friend,

While I was busy enjoying some sewing projects and jewellery making projects since last three weeks, it was a pleasant surprise to get appreciation through this blog post by Ms. Geetha Nair about Tantu :) My Heartiest thanks for her kindest words and awesome comments given by her precious readers that make me more responsible and keep me encouraged :)

I have a lot of things to share with you dears! But, today I will sign off re-blogging the post of Geethaji :)

TC! Bye for now!

Originally posted on Fabric of Life:

Creativity in any form is a treat to both the eyes and the mind. It brings out the artist in one. The gift of the Almighty is reflected in the end result of any work of art. It is something to be nurtured and savoured. Well, there is one such blog that I would like to introduce to you today , a blog simple in design but great in content, a blog that teaches us simple things that we can do on our own, things that bring out the best in us, help us discover our latent talent. It is none other than “TANTU” a blog for the fashion enthusiast.
What is ‘TANTU?’

To quote Sindhu the proud owner of the blog mentioned here “Tantu, which refers to a thread in Sanskrit, is the genome for textiles and fashion designing……… Tantu also refers to continuity. Continuity is the other name…

View original 294 more words

Posted in Designing | 6 Comments

How To Draft Basic (Plain) Set-in Sleeves?

This post deals with drafting instructions for Basic (Plain) Set-in Sleeves that can be used as a base for many of the style variations in Set-in Sleeve.

Hello my dear Tantu Reader!

Weather has changed surprisingly quickly since this Monday as if teasing my words in last post that was scheduled and published on Monday. Clouds dance and dance and dance welcoming the spring! I feel like watching them for the whole day and think, won’t they get tired???

Hmm, I had to wake up for fulfilling the request placed by Ms. Umayal Anand for sleeve drafting instructions and thought of a second post for this week. So, I am back again with Set-in Sleeves!

What are Set-in Sleeves?

Sleeves that are set-into armscye line at shoulder are known as set-in sleeves. They cover the arm part only unlike the raglans that cover even the shoulder.

Basic Set-in Sleeve or Plain Sleeve

Basic set-in sleeve is without any style features. Once the basic construction is understood, it is easy to add any style feature to it.

Three-quarter_Basic_(Plain)_Set-in_Sleeve

Three-quarter Basic (Plain) Set-in Sleeve

Above shown is a blouse with slightly below elbow (almost three-quarter long) plain sleeves designed by me in the beginning of year 2010. This type of sleeves was a trend in 2013. Sewn by my all time favourite dressmaker/tailor Mr. Mohan, Setwell Tailors, Puttur. Photography credits to my sister, Ms. Shwetha Ulhas, who patiently spent her precious time to take a good snap (finally!) of a non-cooperative and very shy model (that is me :D). For a short Plain Set-in Style Blouse picture, please click here.

How to Draft Basic Set-in Sleeve Pattern?

Measurements required

  • Upper Arm Round: This measurement is either taken directly around the upper arm or calculated using the bust circumference.

While calculating from bust circumference, measurements can be taken differently.

1/6th of Bust Circumference +3cm (This measurement results a stylish look with standing out hem at the arm. The more the upper arm round taken, the more stylish the look is.)

or

1/8th of Bust Circumference + 3.5cm (This measurement is lesser than the previous one and creates an arm hugging hem.)

  • Sleeve Length
  • Sleeve Round: Measurement taken round the arm where the sleeve ends.

Drafting Instructions

Drafting_Instructions-Basic(Plain)_Set-in_Sleeve

Drafting Instructions – Basic (Plain) Set-in Sleeve

The instructions are given in the drafting diagram above. Following note would give clearer idea.

1. Take pattern paper on fold. Block out a rectangle having

  • ½  of round  the upper arm measurement (= 1/6th of bust Circumference + 3cm + 2.5 seam allowance ) as width
  • sleeve length (= desired Sleeve Length + 1cm seam allowance at top and 2cm to 5cm seam allowance at bottom) as length

Draw a horizontal line at 1/12th of bust circumference measuring from the top. This would define the sleeve cap height. Width of this line is same as the Upper Arm Round. Note down 2.5cm seam allowance given at the side. It means that seam line falls 2.5cm inside the outline. This is the position of arm pit.

Mark deeper front armscye curve and back armscye curve as shown in red colour. These curves form smooth shapes of letter ‘S’ in reverse.  Remember, this entire curved line must measure equal to the armscye round measurement and curved armscye line of the bodice.

Armscye curves of front and back should match at arm pit (that is, 2.5cm inside the Sleeve cap line). These curves may require stretching and shaping at various points to match it to the armscye of the bodice. Care is taken to match the sleeve centre (fold line in the picture above) to the shoulder seam.

Measure ½ of sleeve round and mark it at the bottom as shown.  Some ease may also be included. Join this point to the arm pit marked already as shown in orange dotted line. Add 2.5cm seam allowance and draw another line parallel to the previous line. This is the cutting line.

The green dotted line is the bottom fold line. Fold the extra bottom part twice up to the green line while hemming.

Mark vertical grain line for longer sleeves. Mark horizontal grain line for short sleeves. Even diagonal grain line can be marked. This marking entirely depends upon the stretch, fall and drape required.

Cut 2 parts, one for left and the other for right. Sleeves for left and right side would be mirror image of each other.

Note: This construction details are for a short basic/plain sleeve.

Set-in Sleeves Patterns On Fold

Set-in Sleeves Patterns On Fold

Patterns look as below, when open.

Set-in_Sleeves_Patterns_kept_Open

Set-in Sleeves Patterns kept Open

Thus we completed drafting! Some of the common style variations of Basic/Plain Set-in Sleeve are – puff sleeves, bell sleeves, cap sleeves, petal sleeves and so on… Click here to view the Draped Designer Salwar Kameez with a gathered style variation. I have a fair collection of different blouse styles. Will show them in future :)

Did you find this post useful? Your affectionate comments with valuable feedback help Tantu to deliver what you wish :)

Take care!

Bye until the next post!

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Patterns | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

DIY Spray Painting

A DIY post on how to make fabric painting using spray painting techniques.

Namaste!

How are you? How is the weather? It is mid Feb and still ‘feeling December’ here in Pune. This is the lengthiest winter I have ever experienced in my life!

Well! Time to talk about today’s post :) This is a continuation post on request of a fellow blogger of mine, Ms Deepa Prabhu (you may visit her interesting blog clicking here – Random Photography). We had discussed about Thread Painting in last post. Today’s topic is spray painting.

Spray Painting:

Spray painting is a method of painting by spraying paint in small dots. A simple tool for spraying paint on a fabric is a tooth brush.

Stencil Worked Spray Painting

Stencil Worked Spray Painting

This double-coloured/shaded spray paint work (done using a stencil) of lotus, Indian national flower, was done when I was a student. Please excuse me for keeping my madam’s signature and comment as such in the photograph. You might also like spray painted sari designed by me here. You may also find more hints about using stencils in that post.

  • Difficulty level: Easy to moderate
  • Skill level: Basic
  • Time taken to design a square feet area: 15-20 minutes to paint and time taken to complete the design is till the fabric dries
  • Design Application: Medium to very large designs are formed. Kerchiefs, Stoles, Kameez, Salwar, sari, Blouses, Bedspreads, Curtains, etc can be designed.

Requirements

Desired Fabric (Pre-washed and ironed)

Fabric Paint

Paint Brushes

Tooth Brush

Waste Paper

Spray Painting - Materials Required

Spray Painting – Materials Required

How to Do Spray Painting ?

Take an even bristle tooth brush. Load it with paint. Load of paint should not be too much or too less.

Spray Painting - Load Fabric Paint On The Toothbrush

Spray Painting – Load Fabric Paint On The Toothbrush

Test it on a sample to confirm if the paint load is adequate. Just move your thumb gently on the bristles and test spraying on a sample fabric.

Spray Painting - Spraying The Paint By Pressing Thumb Against The Brisles

Spray Painting – Spraying The Paint By Pressing Thumb Against The Brisles

When you are satisfied with the spray effect, do it on the actual fabric. Hold the brush above the fabric (at about 2inch distance). Let the bristle side face the fabric. Now, gently move your thumb on the paint filled bristles. Watch how the fabric gets painted with the dots.

 

Spray Painting - Free Form and Stenciled Spray Works

Spray Painting – Free Form and Stenciled Spray Works

You can randomly spray paint on a fabric surface (shown below) or you can make a stencil work (as shown in the beginning of this post) too.

Note:

  • Always test on a sample fabric piece.
  • Paint spreads differently on different fabric based on the absorbency. So, spray results differently based on the fabric.
  • Almost any kind of designs can be tried with spray painting technique using a stencil. The free form abstract effect of spray painting is just unique.
  • Please follow the aftercare instructions given in the paint bottle. Ironing on the wrong side of the fabric after 72 hours fixes the paint pigments on to the fabric surface. And afterwards, the fabric can be washed. Always, care must be taken to iron on the wrong side of a painted fabric.

This is a short introduction and DIY spray painting. I hope this would help a designing enthusiast in you to create your own designs! Feel free to leave your comments on this project. Your feedback and suggestions help Tantu to provide what you wish :)

Take care!

Bye until the next post!

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Designing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 27 Comments

Thread Painting Technique – Fun Of Painting On Fabric!

A DIY post on how to make abstract fabric painting using techniques of thread painting. This post also covers the tips for creating a skilful work.

Hello Friend!

I hope you remember the green sari I painted and posted here. Ms Deepa Prabhu, an awesome fellow blogger of mine, who writes in her awesome blog Random Photography, had requested for a detailed post on the techniques. So today’s post is to elaborate the techniques I have used to paint that sari. Wait, I did prepare for all the techniques used in my sari. But, at the last moment I felt, the post would be lengthy for a beginner and hence, I have limited it to one technique – that is thread painting.

Thread Painting Technique

 This is a fun-filled abstract painting technique that is done using a thread.

Thread Painting - Effects On A Synthetic Sari

Thread Painting – Effects On A Synthetic Sari

 

Difficulty level: Easy

Skill level: Basic

Time taken to design a square feet area: About 5 minutes

Design Application: Almost on anything! Kerchiefs, Stoles, Kammez, Salwar, sari, Blouses, Bedspreads, Curtains and so on!

Requirements

Desired Fabric (Pre-washed and ironed)

Fabric Paint

Paint Brushes or tooth brush

Thick Cotton Thread

Waste Paper or a thin card board

Thread Painting - Materials Required

Thread Painting – Materials Required

How to Make Thread Painting?

1. Load the cotton thread with fabric paint using a paint brush or a tooth brush.

Thread Painting - Loading Cotton Thread With Fabric Paint

Thread Painting – Loading Cotton Thread With Fabric Paint

2. Spread the pre-washed fabric on a newspaper covered table. Newspaper absorbs any extra paint and it also protects the table from paint. Place the paint loaded thread randomly on the desired area of the fabric.

Thread Painting - Cotton Thread Lightly Loaded  With Fabric Paint Laid On Pre-washed Fabric

Thread Painting – Cotton Thread Lightly Loaded With Fabric Paint Laid On Pre-washed Fabric

3. Quickly cover it entirely with a waste paper (or a thin card board) as shown. Apply pressure using one hand and pull the thread lightly with the other hand.

Thread Painting - Press Loaded Cotton Thread On Pre-washed Fabric and Pull

Thread Painting – Press Loaded Cotton Thread On Pre-washed Fabric and Pull

4. Remove the paper. Just watch how an amazing abstract thread painted design is formed. Repeat this method several times at different areas. I made a design as shown below.

Thread Painting - Some Striking results

Thread Painting – Some Striking results

Some of the random thread placing ideas for thread painting are shown below. They are real fun! Just place, press and pull!

Thread Painting - Some Ideas For Placing Loaded Thread On Fabric

Thread Painting – Some Ideas For Placing Loaded Thread On Fabric

Tips For Achieving Best Thread Painting Results:

  1. Always check with a sample fabric prior to design with the actual fabric.
  2. Try pulling from different directions. Watch how interestingly the designs are formed, unexpectedly.
  3. Different fabrics act differently. Delicate designs form in thread painting technique. This is effectively formed on cotton, silks and any other fabric made of natural fibre. Synthetic fabric produces a different result as in the green sari shown. Try varying pressure and direction of pull. Choose the one you feel good.
  4. Fabric paint must be of medium thickness for better results. Try different thicknesses of paint and varying loads of paint on the thread. Again make choice.
  5. Try with different threads of different thickness. Semi-absorbent threads result more exciting textures.
  6. Creativity has no boundary. So, try anything your own. For example, double colour effects can be tried by applying two colours in different areas.

Now, tell me, was this DIY useful? Will you try thread painting technique? Feel free to leave your comments on this post. They are valuable for me. If you face any difficulty in commenting, e-mail me at sindhoooo@gmail.com

Take care!

Bye until the next post!

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Designing, Fabric Painting | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

How To Make Raglan Bodice & Raglan Sleeves?

This post deals with meaning and making of Raglan Style bodice and sleeve. This post also includes tips for Raglan style.

Hi friend!

As I promised, today’s post is dedicated to Raglan sleeves. This post is written in follow-up to the request of Ms Suneetha Yenamala.

Before looking at the making, we need to know what raglan style is.

What is a Raglan style?

A style in which sleeves are joined to the bodice diagonally from armscye into the neckline is raglan style.  In this style, the sleeves cover the shoulder part and bodice is without shoulder part.

Making Raglan Bodice Patterns

Let us take normal front & back bodices (click for pattern here) that are with shoulder.

 Bodice Pattern Front & Back

Bodice Pattern Front & Back

Now, we will take a smooth curve from the armhole part to the neckline. This curve would be slightly deep in front. (If the front and back are of same depth also, it wouldn’t change the fit much.) This pattern is Raglan bodice pattern. Raglan design may be changed by taking the curve towards any of the various points on the neck.

 

Raglan Bodice Patterns - Front & Back

Raglan Bodice Patterns – Front & Back

 

Raglan Sleeves:

Raglan sleeve includes shoulder part. For a raglan bodice, shoulder part is absent. In order to cover shoulder part, we have to include shoulder in the sleeves.

Let us take normal bodices and raglan bodice up on each other respectively. This helps us to compare the shapes. Then, let us take the normal set-in sleeve. This sleeve is to be joined to the armhole.

Raglan Bodices & Set in Sleeve - Understanding Raglan Style

Understanding Raglan Style

Raglan sleeve must include the shoulder part and the sleeve part (shown as white colour patterns). The curvy empty space between the two patterns is for fit. This fitting adjustment is shifted towards the raglan line as shown.

Raglan Bodices & Sleeve Patterns

Raglan Bodices & Sleeve Patterns

Let us understand the same in another way. Now, if we fill the curvy part of the bodice and the sleeve of our set-in patterns, we get a pattern as shown below. This pattern is called as extended shoulder/sleeve pattern. In this pattern, shoulder is extended to cover the arm as sleeve.

Bodice-Set in Sleeve patterns into Extended sleeve pattern

Bodice-Set in Sleeve patterns into Extended sleeve pattern

Now, from this extended shoulder pattern, we will draw the raglan curve in the bodice. In order to give proper fit, we will shape the sleeve as well. Curvy front part of the sleeve is deeper than that in the back (as in the set-in sleeves).

Raglan Bodices & Sleeve Patterns

Raglan Bodices & Sleeve Patterns

Note:

  1. The sleeve curve and the bodice curve must measure almost same. If it varies slightly, then it must be adjusted in stitching.
  2. Seam allowances and eases (added in the picture above) are added at required places.

Task completed! We have successfully made bodice and sleeve patterns for raglan style.

Raglan – Style Tips

Every style is good provided it suits us. So, we need to know Yeses and Nos of raglan style with basic figure types. There are three basic figure types: Normal Figure, Narrow & Sloping Shoulder Figure and Wider & Squarish Shoulder Figure.

1. Raglan Style for Normal Figure:

Figure Type

A person having normal shoulder (with slight slope)

Style Suitability

Yes. Any type of Raglan Style suits them.

Following image can illustrate it better:

Raglan Styles for Normal Shoulder

Raglan Styles for Normal Shoulder

 

2. Raglan Style for Narrow & Sloping Shoulder Figure

Figure Type

Shoulder is Narrow or Sloping or Narrow & Sloping

Style Suitability

Usually no. But, a horizontally taken or rounder raglan style may suit them.

It is illustrated in the following image:

Rounder Raglan Style for Narrow & Sloping Shoulder

Rounder Raglan Style for Narrow & Sloping Shoulder

 

3. Raglan Style for Wide & Square shoulder:

Figure Type

Wide & Square shoulder

Style Suitability

Yes. Diagonally taken raglan lines suit them. But, must avoid horizontally tending raglans for this figure type.

This can be understood easily from the following illustration:

Vertical Raglan Style for Wide & Squarish Shoulder

Vertical Raglan Lines for Wide & Squarish Shoulder

It would be a happy moment if this post would be of some use for you! I would love to read your feedback and suggestions! They help Tantu to deliver what you need!

TC! Bye Until the next post!

Follow Tantu for updates: FB, G+, Pinterest, Linkedin, Bloglovin and IFB :)

Posted in Designing, Fashion Illustration, Patterns, Style Tips | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments