This post deals with meaning and making of Raglan Style bodice and sleeve. This post also includes tips for Raglan style.
As I promised, today’s post is dedicated to Raglan sleeves. This post is written in follow-up to the request of Ms Suneetha Yenamala.
Before looking at the making, we need to know what raglan style is.
What is a Raglan style?
A style in which sleeves are joined to the bodice diagonally from armscye into the neckline is raglan style. In this style, the sleeves cover the shoulder part and bodice is without shoulder part.
Making Raglan Bodice Patterns
Let us take normal front & back bodices (click for pattern here) that are with shoulder.
Now, we will take a smooth curve from the armhole part to the neckline. This curve would be slightly deep in front. (If the front and back are of same depth also, it wouldn’t change the fit much.) This pattern is Raglan bodice pattern. Raglan design may be changed by taking the curve towards any of the various points on the neck.
Raglan sleeve includes shoulder part. For a raglan bodice, shoulder part is absent. In order to cover shoulder part, we have to include shoulder in the sleeves.
Let us take normal bodices and raglan bodice up on each other respectively. This helps us to compare the shapes. Then, let us take the normal set-in sleeve. This sleeve is to be joined to the armhole.
Raglan sleeve must include the shoulder part and the sleeve part (shown as white colour patterns). The curvy empty space between the two patterns is for fit. This fitting adjustment is shifted towards the raglan line as shown.
Let us understand the same in another way. Now, if we fill the curvy part of the bodice and the sleeve of our set-in patterns, we get a pattern as shown below. This pattern is called as extended shoulder/sleeve pattern. In this pattern, shoulder is extended to cover the arm as sleeve.
Now, from this extended shoulder pattern, we will draw the raglan curve in the bodice. In order to give proper fit, we will shape the sleeve as well. Curvy front part of the sleeve is deeper than that in the back (as in the set-in sleeves).
- The sleeve curve and the bodice curve must measure almost same. If it varies slightly, then it must be adjusted in stitching.
- Seam allowances and eases (added in the picture above) are added at required places.
Task completed! We have successfully made bodice and sleeve patterns for raglan style.
Raglan – Style Tips
Every style is good provided it suits us. So, we need to know Yeses and Nos of raglan style with basic figure types. There are three basic figure types: Normal Figure, Narrow & Sloping Shoulder Figure and Wider & Squarish Shoulder Figure.
1. Raglan Style for Normal Figure:
A person having normal shoulder (with slight slope)
Yes. Any type of Raglan Style suits them.
Following image can illustrate it better:
2. Raglan Style for Narrow & Sloping Shoulder Figure
Shoulder is Narrow or Sloping or Narrow & Sloping
Usually no. But, a horizontally taken or rounder raglan style may suit them.
It is illustrated in the following image:
3. Raglan Style for Wide & Square shoulder:
Wide & Square shoulder
Yes. Diagonally taken raglan lines suit them. But, must avoid horizontally tending raglans for this figure type.
This can be understood easily from the following illustration:
It would be a happy moment if this post would be of some use for you! I would love to read your feedback and suggestions! They help Tantu to deliver what you need!
TC! Bye Until the next post!