Making Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

This DIY post is about making a basic pattern for sari blouse with minimum cuts and minimum darts. This pattern can be used as a base for any structural design variation in sari blouses, both useful for the beginners and the masters.

Hello!

How are you friend? I had been on a vacation and when I came back, I was happy to see my mailbox filled with mails from beloved Tantu Readers :) Thank you so much for your love! And, there were many requests regarding pattern making. So, I have brought a pattern making post again!

This DIY basic pattern making for sari blouse post is in response to the requests by –

Ms. Arja, Ms. Vanathi and Ms. Joshma.

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

This sari blouse pattern is with waistline darts. As it is named, it is the most basic pattern for a sari blouse. Hence, the pattern is without waistband or any other cuts. Even though this pattern looks similar to the basic sloper, it is slightly different in its fit.

Let’s start with the measurements.

Measurements Needed:

Shoulder Measurement:

Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled. When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.

Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth:

Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference.

It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about ½ an inch below the armpit. Armscye depth varies from 13cm – 18cm (or about 5 inch – 7 inch) in the increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.

Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by different dressmakers for different outfits.

For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best.

1/6th of Bust Circumference

Front & Back Neck depths:

Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.

Bust Circumference:

Taken around the fullest part of the bust.

Waist Circumference:

Taken around the navel point.

Bust Point or Pivot Point:

Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point.

Waist Length:

Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.

Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse With Waistline Dart

Front Part:

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts - Front Bodice

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts – Front Bodice

 

1. Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.

Centre Front Line: Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance

Shoulder can be taken square or sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made. Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.

2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw front armhole shape about 1cm inward this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape at the sides.

5. Dart: Take 1/12th of the Bust Circumference + 2.5cm at waist from the centre front.  Draw an upright line. Measure a point at about 3cm from the waist. (Note: This will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under the bust part.)

Waist Band Part and Under Bust Part  Highlighted

Waist Band Part Highlighted

 

Mark a Dart of about 5cm here taking 2.5cm on each side. Measure and mark Bust Point on the same line from the shoulder. Dart point will be about 2cm below the bust point. Draw a dart as shown.

6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.

7. Draw desired front neckline.

8. Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.

Back Part:

 

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts - Back Bodice

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts – Back Bodice

 

1. Square down centre back line and shoulder lines.

Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance

2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw back armhole shape on this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 2cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. You may need to shape the waistline a little to match it to the front.

5. Dart: Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12th of Bust Circumference + 1cm. This dart is about 7cm in length with 1cm width on each side.

6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.

7. Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the front.

8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown.

Fastening:

Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back. Add 1cm seam allowance for the attachment of hook and eye fastening strips.

We are done!

Well, I must mention the uses of this basic pattern.

Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern

  1. This is the basic and the simplest pattern for sari blouse excluding waist bands and extra darts. Construction is simple for the beginners.
  2. Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern. For high necks, a shoulder slope is given.
  3. This pattern serves as a base for all the types of princess lines. For details on princess lines, click here. Just exclude the darts without a need to press the pattern as given here.
  4. Easy to add length.
  5. Back or front fastening styles are easily adapted. This pattern is excluding the seam allowance for fastening. 1cm seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front or back) to give an opening.

So, did you find this DIY post useful? Your valuable feedback and suggestions help me to understand your requirements :) After all, Tantu is for you!

Expect a detailed post on adapting this basic sari blouse pattern into a princess line pattern soon.

Let me sign off for now!Top post on IndiBlogger.in, the community of Indian Bloggers

TC!

Bye Until the next post!

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About sindhoooo

Hi, I am Sindhu Devi, an Indian Fashion Designer. I am a graduate in Fashion Design from Mangalore University, who bagged the first rank in the year 2006. I have enjoyed teaching Fashion Design for 5years. Currently I am a full time designer and a full time homemaker. I am passionate about designing as well as making of unique outfits and accessories, keen to share my design ideas in the blogosphere.
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50 Responses to Making Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

  1. Have tried and failed to stitch a blouse… Need to try this…

  2. namrota says:

    Ahaa.. this is so gooood.. I love DIYs… but I dont have a stiching machine..lol.. but, have bookmarked it.. will try it on my aunt’s machine. You teach well :)

  3. kimi colney says:

    your blog is very informative…looking forward to more posts….keep blogging!

  4. Wow very well explained.

  5. Indrani says:

    Very detailed post.

  6. Susheelanbhat says:

    It is so….good. I like ur blog.it is very helpful to the bigeners.basic pattern for sari blouse is to…good.aanu modals stich maadutta edde.ega Ella bettede.edu nodeda mele puna stich madakku heli auttu.thank u sindu

    • sindhoooo says:

      Thank you so much for your visit and your liking for Tantu :) Oh! Ninga stitch madigondittira! Glad that Tantu is inspiring you! Ningala preetiya maatugalinge dhanyavaaadagalu :) TC!

  7. Bhuvana says:

    Hi Sindhu,
    I was really looking for this. Let me try and update you on the feedback. so well explained.
    Thanks dear,
    Bhuvana

  8. Anita says:

    You make it look so simple! But, I don’t know how to use the sewing-machine :) Blouse-pieces are waiting to be stitched :) Nice DIY instructions :)

  9. I nominated you for the Liebster award!
    xxx
    Dee

  10. arja p says:

    thanks for detailed DIY. I’ll try n let you know soon.

  11. vidaleflored says:

    i always look for something like this. i will give it a try thanks a lot

  12. Sunitha says:

    Hi Sindhu, Nice blog and keep it coming. One of my observations in most of the drafts is that for the shoulder line it is 1/2 shoulder + 1 cm or so. I understand that this is the basic draft. As the back neckline deepens, this shoulder measurement will not work and the blouse will fall off the shoulder. SO the shoulder measurement has to be accordingly decreased as I understand. Is there any standard measurement for this like Neck deep to Shoulder measurement chart? Will appreciate your inputs on this.

    • sindhoooo says:

      Hi Sunitha,

      So sorry for delayed reply to your comment.

      Thanks for your kind words, they encourage me a lot! Yes, I agree with you, as the neckline deepens more than 3inches, we need to reduce the shoulder width. I am doing a research on Indian and other pattern making methods worldwide and will publish a post on the same shortly. Thanks so much for your inputs regarding this :) You are always welcome to discussion in anything related to garmenting/textiles/fashion :)

      Keep visiting and help Tantu grow :)

      TC! Bye! Keep smiling!

  13. paru says:

    Great post!!!!!!!!!!Can i make princess cut blouse from same?If yes,then what are the changes to be made in the above mention diagram, esp.the arm syce part. Thanks in advance

  14. paru says:

    I got answer to my query in one of your post .Again thanks for well xplained tutorial. I fail to understand why it is curve on both the sides of front bodice while back bodice remain unchange.pl help.

    • sindhoooo says:

      Hi Paru,

      Hope you are doing good. I am extremely sorry for making you wait so long.

      Regarding your question: Are you asking about the curves formed in the front princess line? If yes, the answer is that the front blouse part covers the bust which is curvy and hence the two princess-cut panels of front are curvy while the back parts are not.

      I hope I have clarified your doubt :) Feel free to ask anything. Because, you never know if others are also in need of an answer for the same :)

      Tc! Bye! Keep visiting!

  15. sindhu says:

    Its very useful…easy to follow…thank u sindhu..can u pl post front part of the blouse cutting pl. ?..your method one is easy to understand.

  16. thogai arasi says:

    very much useful. I am going to stitch a blouse for me. thank you.

  17. Jeanne says:

    This great! I have forgotten my procedures in pattern making.
    Thank you!

    • sindhoooo says:

      Thanks Jeanne! Glad that my post helped you to refresh your knowledge :) Hope you had a pleasant stay here :) TC! Bye! Keep smiling and visit again :)

  18. Johnc132 says:

    You have brought up a very good details , thankyou for the post. adcdbgbdebak

  19. I regret to say I am not so good with fabric but if I was going to try I think I would start right here. Your instructions are so clearly detailed I am sure even I could have a go and make something wearable.

  20. You have a very interesting and informative blog.

  21. Nandhini says:

    Hi, found your instructions extremely valuable, Could you also please give the instructions to make the pattern for sleeves and front patti. If a person is short, how do you adjust the patti width, because I find that I have to increase the back length and this sometimes makes the back too long.
    Thanking you in advance…

    • sindhoooo says:

      Hi Nandhini,

      Happy to have you and your valuable words for my post :) I have covered a post on pattern making of basic set-in sleeve here: http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/02/27/drafting_basic_or_plain_set-in_sleeves_pattern

      Regarding your doubts, as per my understanding:
      We need the length measurements and girth measurements (here waist length, bust, upper arm round and sleeve length) and if a person is short or much healthy, the pattern is made anyways based on the measurements. Hence, any width and length issues should not come. If you are talking about using ready patterns available in the market, then we need to have a discussion regading this :)

      Hope I have made it clear. TC! Keep smiling :)

  22. priya kamath says:

    Dear Ma’am
    I love the way u present u r blog. Neat n detailed.

  23. rocky says:

    i could not find the sleeves measurement. did you mean a sleeveless blouse?

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